Picking at the pimples on your face is bad for your skin—period.
But if there is one type of blemish in particular that you really shouldn’t pick at, it’s milia.
Milia appear similar to whiteheads, only they’re impossible to pop because they aren’t actually pimples.
Unlike whiteheads that are filled with dead skin cells and sebum, milia are hardened cysts filled with keratin, a protein found in the skin, hair and nails.
What causes milia to form on the face and how can you banish these pimple imposters?
Here are three things guys need to know about milia on the face:
- When keratin gets trapped on its way to the surface of the skin, it can form hardened cysts called milia.
- Practicing sun safety and following a regular skin care regimen can help prevent milia.
- While milia often go away on their own, there are steps you can take to speed up the process.
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What Causes Milia on the Face?
Milia (singular, milium) are benign, keratin-containing cysts that often appear in newborns.
However, they can appear in adults as well, usually forming on the eyelids, nose and cheeks.
A milium forms when keratin—a natural protein that enhances skin barrier function—becomes stuck on its way to the outer layer of the skin.
According to an early study published in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, the stuck keratin is believed to be caused by faulty follicle degeneration (see claim: “…arose from undifferentiated epithelial cells which had become sequestered in the dermis as a result of faulty follicle degeneration…”)
While the exact cause of milia remains unclear, the following can potentially contribute to their formation of keratin cysts:
Hereditary Conditions: Some hereditary conditions are often associated with milia, including inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea and acne.
Milia that are caused by other conditions are called “secondary milia,” while milia with no known cause are called “primary milia.”
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Professional Skin Treatments: If you’ve recently been experimenting with facials and chemical peels, you may want to lay off them until your milia are resolved.
According to a 2012 study published in the Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, aggressive skin treatments such as chemical peels can result in milia (see claim: “Deep peels…can cause milia…”)
Skin Trauma: Milia can also result from skin trauma such as blistering rashes caused by excessive sun exposure.
According to a 2017 case report published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, getting a tattoo has also been known to cause eruptive milia, although this appears to be extremely rare (see claim: “Milia within tattoos are rare, with only three reports in the English literature.”)
Prevention Methods
Milia can be difficult to prevent and treat due to a lack of studies on the subject.
Even so, there are a few things you can do that can potentially reduce your chances of developing these pesky white bumps.
Exfoliation: One of the easiest ways to prevent milia on the face is to exfoliate regularly.
This will promote healthy cell turnover, potentially reducing the likelihood of keratin getting plugged in the skin.
Just be careful to avoid damaging the skin.
The best way to exfoliate the sensitive skin on your face is by using a gentle face scrub once or twice a week.
Avoid Prolonged Sun Exposure: Staying out of the sun during peak hours (10 a.m. - 4 p.m.) and wearing a daily moisturizer with SPF can reduce the likelihood of developing milia. Even if you aren’t prone to milia, following safe sun practices will help lower your risk of skin cancer.
Take the skin care quizHow to Get Rid of Milia
Unlike a regular pimple, which eventually rises to the surface of the skin, milia cysts are completely trapped underneath the skin with no access to the surface.
For this reason, at-home removal methods that can potentially damage the skin are not recommended.
Comedone Extractor: According to a 2016 case report published in Oncology Letters, milia are typically removed by a comedone extractor (see claim: “…usually treated by evacuation with a comedone extractor.”)
On the off chance that you own a comedone extractor, it’s best to leave this job to the professionals.
Attempting to remove them with this aggressive tool can damage the skin and cause permanent scarring.
Sterile Needle or Scalpel Blade: Using a sterile needle or a #11 scalpel blade, dermatologists will nick the keratin cyst before using a comedone extractor to remove the keratin.
Wrapping Up
The good news is that milia often go away on their own. You can potentially make them go away more quickly with a skin care system that includes regular exfoliation.
If your milia are particularly stubborn and bothersome, don’t attempt to remove them by yourself with dangerous methods.
Always see a dermatologist for the removal of milia. They have the tools and knowledge to safely remove your milia.